Earlier this week, I was asked on the PP forums to elaborate more on my process for painting my Khador Black and Pinks. Since I’m painting a Kodiak for this last 2-week bracket of the Slow-Grow league, I figured it would be a great opportunity to go more in-depth and explain my process.
For starters, I prime black with Krylon Flat Black Indoor/Outdoor spray paint.
Step 1: Blocking
It’s also called basecoating, but essentially what I’m doing here is figuring out what panels or areas will be what color. This stage is super important while you’re figuring out a scheme. Once you have a scheme though, it’s mostly just copying what you’ve done before.
One important thing I should say here – these base coats will be underneath everything else you paint. I realize it’s not glamorous (like free hand painting or washing can be), but it’s incredibly important to get these first few layers thin and smooth.
For the Kodiak, I have to do two coats of GW Foundation Astronomicon Grey over all the areas that will be pink. This will brighten up the pink considerably.
Next, all the metal areas get a coat of GW Boltgun Metal. Then, the Smokestacks get some bronze, as does the face. Lastly, I go over all the pink areas with two coats of P3 Murderous Magenta. Since this is a dark color over a light color, I have to be super careful about brush strokes. So, I make sure that on the first coat, I keep all my brush strokes going in the same direction. This will make it easier to go perpendicular to them next time. By brushing in a perpendicular direction, there’s no chance for paint to build up in lines, and no chance for thin spots so you’ll maintain a nice, smooth surface.
Step 2: Pink
The first layer of pink is a mixture of Murderous magenta and Carnal Pink, in a roughly 4:1 ratio. It’s just a touch lighter than pure Murderous Magenta. (I have a mixture of 2:1 MM:CP which I use as my mid-tone, so I use equal parts of that and Carnal Pink, which achieves a roughly 4:1 ratio). This layer covers roughly 50% of the pink areas, bordering the panels. This layer isn’t really meant to be a big difference, it’s mostly meant to ease the next layer, so that it’s not as abrupt.
The next layer is 2:1 MM:CP, and covers half the previous layer. This layer is more visible, and really helps set the tone for the pink. The base coat screams hot pink, but this layer is sort of a bubblegum color and that helps temper the outrageous-ness of the hot pink.
The second to last layer is 1:1 CP and that 2:1 mixture, so it’s pretty darn light. Like last time, this layer is half the width of the previous. It’s basically a brush-width. I call this step “edging” because all I’m doing is picking out the edges of the armor.
The final step for the pinks is “cornering”, or picking out the corners. On any type of hard armor, the corners wear the paint off the fastest, and they tend to catch the light fairly well. I pick out the corners of the armor with pure CP, and this could be interpreted as wear, or light, or what have you. Where all the other layers help define the shape of the armor panels, this layer emphasizes the 3-dimensionality of the model.
Step 3: Black
For my blacks, I go straight from the basecoat to a layer of pure Coal Black covering 50% of the area, just like the first layer of the pink. I skip the next layer, and go straight to the “edging”, which is a mixture of Coal Black and Frostbite, at about 2:1.
The “cornering” is pure Frostbite. Once the cornering was done, I went over anything that will be gold with Boltgun Metal. P3’s Shining Gold can be thin, so the Boltgun Metal gives it a lighter made, and unifies the gold (gold would look a bit different over pink than over black).
So that’s my pinks and blacks for my Khador Army. Nothing terribly complex, and zero blending of any sort. It’s all about brush control and keeping the lines smooth.
After I got done with the black “edging”, my camera batteries died, so you’ll just have to wait for Wednesday’s Clash of the Titans to see the finished model.
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