General Update

All posts tagged General Update

I’ve been spending most of my free time working on the snotling pump wagons.  They’re coming along, but that’s not what I want to talk about right now.  All week, I’ve been rotating models into the Super Clean and then into the Acetone.

Unlike before though, I got my hands on some pure Acetone – not the diluted nail polish remover stuff.  The Nail Polish remover I had been using weakens the glue and turns it into the same consistency as rubber cement.
Pure Acetone?  It makes super glue disappear.  Gone.  I had a Kodiak that was mostly in one piece.  The paint cam off just fine, and so I soaked it in Acetone overnight.  Today, I touched it with my tweezers, and it fell into pieces. This thing was a rock when I got it, and the Acetone just destroyed any trace of superglue.
Amazing!  I’m never going back to Nail Polish Remover.  Ever.  Oh, and the best way to use the stuff?  Tositos salsa jars.  Resealable glass containers?  Yes please!  No worrying about the Acetone eating through plastic cups!
So, this week, I’ve successfully cleaned up:
4x Blighted Swordsmen
5x Blighted Raptors
Stormblades + UA
1x Hunter
5x MoW Demo Corp
12x Iron Fang Pikemen
So, while I’ve been putting most of my efforts into the pump wagons, I still got quite a bit accomplished on my own models, too.
To close, here’s some pictures of Aptimus Marketh, now that he’s done.  I may still fall short of 10 pts for this month, but at least I’ve made Lost Hemisphere’s Paint the Target for this month!  Yay!

Somehow he got a little bit of gunk on his pillow, likely some glue from the foam tray.  A careful fingernail got it off alright.

I’ll have an update on the Snotling Wagons tomorrow, after I get some feedback from the client.


I got home last night and had some time to work on stuff.  I pulled up Netflix, and started in on the last few episodes of Eureka Season 1, while cleaning up my workspace a bit.

I was able to put some paint down on the snotling test miniature, since it’s skin needs to be lighter.  It now looks like this guy from James Bond: Live and Let Die.  The contrast is far too strong.  I’ll have to either strip it and do it again, or re-base coat the skin and do a wash.
I finished putting together the full Venators + UA, and only had to sacrifice one finger to do it.  Yep, stabbed myself with the drill.  Luckily, it wasn’t running.  Still hurt, and is sore today.  Hey, at least that unit’s done!
Put the last bit of primer on the Beast Handlers, so I can start in on their bases soon.  I tried to touch up the primer on my Brute and Ancestral Guardian this morning, but something went awry with the spray can and they turned into sandpaper.
I now have to strip them.  I’m not happy about it.
Have you ever had a day where it felt like for every one thing that went right, 3 went wrong?

I’m in the Press Gang!  I can now support my local gamers by running tournaments, leagues and such!

Ok, that’s all.  Thanks.

Actually, I should have Snotling Wagon updates tonight, and Skorne updates this weekend.  Stay tuned!

So, as you may have noticed, my pictures have been off lately.  I wasn’t happy with the lighting in my lightbox.  The bulbs were too warm in color, casting orangish light, which messes up the colors on everything.

A trip to Lowe’s fixed that.  I picked up a pack of four daylight halogen bulbs, and three small metal reflector housings.  This way, I can put lights into each side, and through the top of the lightbox.
Here’s how my battleboxes look under the new lighting:
Rawr!  Om nom nom!  *hiccup*
Go, go boys in blue!
Skornergy at its finest!

One of the biggest problems I seem to be having in my  WM / H games is determining if models have LOS to another.  Be it spell slinging, gunfire or determining cover / concealment bonuses, LOS is a major factor in our games.  To check LOS, one must lay a straight edge on the table to be able to physically check if a line can be drawn between bases.  The most common straight edge available to me is usually my tape measure, and I definitely don’t want to use that.

Why?  Read this.  The second most often seen cheat is measurement shenanigans.
To avoid this, I decided to build a line laser.  It’s a special type of laser pointer that draws a line on the surface you point it at.  They’re most commonly used in laser levels for hanging pictures on walls.  If I had one of those line lasers in my pocket, I could slap a straight edge on the table and check LOS without any fear of pre-measuring!  Sweet.
So, I bought a $5 red line laser module off eBay, and used a $3 flashlight similar to these.
After testing the laser module at work, I took it home and tore apart the flashlight.  Here’s what was inside:
There’s 3x AAA batteries, a battery cartidge, a large spring, a casing, an end with a button in it, a small circuit board with the 9 LEDs and a small spring on the back, a reflector with 9 holes in it for the LEDs, a clear lens, a retaining ring (which had to be unscrewed to get the LEDs out) and the big bulbous end that all the stuff goes into.  Oh, and the laser module.
First order of business:  making it work with one less battery.  The flash light uses 3x 1.5V AAA batteries in series, producing 4.5V.  The laser module runs on 3V.  Thus, if we remove one battery, we have 1.5 x 2 = 3V!  So, I took some spare brass tube and cut it to just a hair longer than the length of a battery:
I then crushed one end of it with a set of small pliers.  I wanted the crushed end to sort of form a cone.
Meh, good enough.  The reason for this is that this rod will replace a battery in the battery cartridge.  Since my tube was almost as big as one of the springs that applies pressure on the battery, I figured it would be easier to have it ride inside the smallest part of the spring.
I stuck the smushed end of the rod into one of the battery cartridge slots and then snapped the rod into place.  The non spring end of the cartridge had an embossed ring, likely to help capture the nub on the end of the battery.  The rod fit into that perfectly.
Now, I needed to figure out how to attach the laser module.  
Flashlights tend to use the metal chassis of the flashlight as ground, or the negative end of the battery.  Since the big spring is part of that connection (connects the body with the LED circuit board, I could solder to the spring.for my negative side.  Any part of the spring will do, but the narrow part where the wire that makes up the spring ends, right up next to the coil is the best.  Solder will wick right into that narrow space and stay put.
I then scratched up the contact on the “+” side of the battery cartridge with my hobby knife and put a small puddle of solder there
Red to +, black to the spring, and the soldering was done!
At this point I was able to stuff everything into the flashlight and confirm my circuit worked.  So, all I had to do was somehow mount the LED module into the tip securely.  It won’t be an effective tool of the LED module is all wiggly and unsteady.
I found out that a 23/64″ drill bit is 9.1mm in diameter.  Since my LED module was 9mm in diamater, this was the drill bit for me.  I used the silver reflector from the flashlight and used the middle hole as a pilot hole.  Some slow hand drilling later (so I didn’t crack the plastic) and …
Putting it all together, and…
It works like a charm!  It seems to have the thinnest line at about a meter away, which is perfect for the tabletop.  Since it runs on two AA batteries, it’ll be easy to keep it running.

Lylyth has LOS to Morghoul, despite his best efforts…