All posts tagged Eldar


First, everything got primed black (except the canopy, that got primed white).

Then, I diligently and slowly put down about 3-4 layers of thinned Murderous Magenta (P3) on the spots I wanted the main color.

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Next, I mixed some Carnal Pink (P3) into the Murderous Magenta, and put this down in the brightest spots.



Lastly, I put down another coat of Murderous Magenta, this time cut 50/50 with Matte Medium to help make it more translucent.  This tinted the bright spots from the previous step back towards the color I wanted.  They retain their luminosity and the model keeps it’s contrast, but it’s firmly magenta, rather than bubble-gum pink.

I also tossed the cockpit onto the model real quick just to see what it looked like at this stage.



At this point, I’ve lost a fair bit of the lower end of the contrast on the top side of the model, so I went in with some Thamar Black (P3) and my brushes, and added in the low end.  I also started applying basecoats of Menoth White Base (P3) to the areas that will eventually be white / bone.





And then, because I could, I shaded, highlighted and outlined the glass.  Shading was Cygnar Blue Base (P3) and Exile Blue (P3).  Highlighting was some of the base color, Cygnar Blue Highlight (P3) with some Underbelly Blue (P3) mixed in.  The outline’s just black right now but will get some highlights when I do the rest of the blacks.



And that’s it for now.  Stay tuned!

A while back, during a video update (YouTube, about 4:00), I mentioned that I’d found a pair of Eldar WarWalkers on the cheap.  They were in bad shape and needed some love.  DakkaDakka’s monthly hobby challenge for April is a “Veteran” model, something that looks like it’s gone through hell and back.

So, I’m going to try out my new Eldar scheme on the War Walker, and then weather the hell out of it.

For reference, here’s the GW Stock model:


Here’s an overview of the parts, after they were stripped and most of the mold lines taken care of:

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The main body wouldn’t come apart, so I’m left with the cockpit and glass, guns, and legs.  The leg with the foot attached to the base broke at the ankle (no surprise there), so it’s gotten a massive brass tube in that joint, since it supports the entire weight of the model.

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There’s some antennae that are supposed to jut out from the hips here, but they were broken off on my model.  So, I just clipped what was left and cleaned up the form into the familiar curve of an Eldar model.  They won’t be missed.


The back antennae aren’t on straight, but there’s not much I can do about it.  More importantly, you can kind of see that the torso is turned just a bit on the hips.  Turned to the right.  I’m going to work with that to help give this thing some life.


One of the gun sponsons was broken.  i rebuilt it with brass tube and plastic tube.  Also, my sponsons don’t have the wings things on the sides, which I like – those things look so dorky in my opinion.  Streamlined is more befitting Eldar.


The pilot that I got had no helmet, and I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – Who’d be stupid enough to take off their helmet in the middle of a war zone?  Didn’t these guys see Saving private Ryan (or any other movie flick, ever?)  So, I dropped on an Eldar Guardian head.  I have his head turned the same direction as the walker itself, so there’ll be a feeling of symbiosis between the pilot and machine.


The grey post there is how the cockpit attaches to the torso.  It looks like they never intended the cockpit to be anything but perfectly straight with the torso, but I say differently.  I chamfered the edge, and this will allow the cockpit to attach at an angle.


That’s the final pose I’m going with.  I think it’s got lots of life and movement.  Fingers crossed that the ankle can hold the weight…

This model’s been a blast to work on. I haven’t gotten a chance to work on a GW model in a while, and it’s refreshing to work on a model that has a completely different style and level of detail, not to mention a different material.

I wanted to give the pink a little more interest, since it was a little flat, so I mixed some Carnal Pink (P3) into the base Murderous Magenta (P3) and got something in between the two. I 2-brush blended this as a highlight. It was a bit too much, though, as it shifted the feel of the mini from deep magenta into bubble-gum pink. A quick wash / glaze with the base magenta fixed that and turned the bubblegum areas into luminous magenta instead. What I’m left with is a much brighter magenta for the highlights.




The YT-1300 project isn’t dead, it was just waiting for inspiration and time. Since I had both this past weekend, I set to work detailing the model. I used primarily Plastruct 0.010″ x 0.030″ styrene strips. These come in 12″ sections, and so far I’ve used almost two feet of the super small stuff to detail the model. I’ve been cutting it into teeny tiny squares and rectangles and using my Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement to stick them on. I’ve found a sharp hobby knife to be a huge boon. Not only does it help cut the plastic quickly, but the tip can be used as an applicator for the small pieces by gently stabbing them.

At this point, all that’s really left is to affix the back over-engine panel, and detail the remaining bits of the cover (including the bottom of it).





I’ll be completely honest, I was pretty well spent after TempleCon.

Painting every spare minute for almost a month and a half will do that, though.  Additionally, it feels like there’s been some family or friend or work related thing every weekend in 2015, so my usual spots of big hobby time (weekends) have been cut in half.

However, after nearly a month of not painting, I’ve put some time into some commissions that have been patiently waiting for some attention, and they’re finally at a spot where I feel I can show them off.

First:  Madrak Ironhide, Chieftan of the United Kriels




My client wanted purpleish skin and yellow stones, and everything else was to be whatever fit that.  I found that the GW paint range as the most purples, so we worked to find a 4-color range that fit the look he wanted for the skin.  Madrak sits in the top half of that range, since Troll warlocks are traditionally Albinos.  The Tartan pattern is straight from the Forces of: Trollbloods book.  At first, I tried a green base for the cloth, but it was way too garish with the overwhelmingly purple skin.  Blue fit much better.

This model represents a few firsts for me as well.  I’ve always shied away from weathering, afraid of ruining a perfectly good paint job.  Madrak is a scheme test model, so ruining things was kinda-OK.  Since the colors we’re using are already kinda outrageous, I figured why not throw some verdigris on the brass bits of his legendary Axe, Rathrok.  After washing the Molten Brass (P3) with some precious Gryphonne Sepia (Old GW), I then put some watered down Meredius Blue (P3) into the creases and then splattered it around.  I think it gives it some nice character.  The other really fun thing on this model was doing the marble on the scroll case hanging behind Madrak.  I first painted the base cream with a Menoth White Base (P3) mid-tone and shaded down with Hammerfall Khaki (P3) and highlighted with Menoth White Highlight (P3).  Then, I used watered down Brown Ink (P3) to draw some blob-y shapes, and refined those and added some depth with less watered down Brown Ink.  I’m very happy with the effect on both.

He still has some work to be done, though.  The runes on his axe need a glow (I’m thinking green, perhaps?) and I want to add one more set of highlights on his skin to really push him higher in value (luminosity).  His base will get extra details after he gets sealed.

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Next up are a pair of Player Character models for a Dungeons and Dragons game.  These are the first two of six characters I’m making for the adventuring party.

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As the 40k bug continues to nibble away at my painting time, I find myself looking for painting videos for inspiration, tips and other nuggets of knowledge.  This video is a good hour and a half long, but goes into loads of detail on how to do what I call the “base wash base” method of painting. This method produces above tabletop quality paint jobs, and requires only two to three different size brushes and having some decent brush control (being able to “paint inside the lines”). SS82’s method is quick and can easily be applied to just about any miniature.