All posts for the month April, 2011

Yay!  An update! Good progress this weekend.  A second deck was added to allow some snotlings to throw stuff at enemies from on high.  Also, a mechanism for attaching and turning the rear wheel was made.  Lastly, a pair of front spikes were made and magnetized.  One will be covered in mushrooms to represent the optional “spore attack” which is a one time use only ability for these wagons.

What do you think?

So, I’ve recently decided I want to try painting some Eldar.  Yes, I know they’re a GW product, but they look so damn cool!  One of the auto-includes for almost any Eldar army is a Farseer HQ choice with the Doom spell.  Doom lets any Eldar unit re-roll wound rolls on the targeted enemy unit / model.  Wahoo!  So, I figured a farseer model would be a good, cheap way to try out painting Eldar.

Studio Warlock Model
The problem is, there isn’t a Farseer model that has the pose I like.  
What I did find was what are essentially lesser Farseers, called Warlocks.  They’re cheaper (points wise), and basically tag along with a unit to protect or guide them.  One of them has the pose I want (and I’ll probably buy him just to paint it, because IMO, it’s an awesome model).  I love the shooting pose here.  Combined with the mask, it has a sense of stoicism and finality.
I want a Farseer that carries the same feeling!
So, I had to find a stock Farseer model that would work with a little modification as possible.  Enter “Eldar Farseer with Spear”.
Eldar Farseer with Spear
It’s pretty darn close to what I want!  He just lacks the important bit – a gun.  In the world of conversions, that’s not a hard thing to change.  You just need a donor.  Something that has a gun and won’t miss it!
With GW models being mostly plastics, there’s always extra bits they include to use up spare room on the sprues.  Sometimes it grenades, ammo pouches, spare pistols, fancy doo-dads, or what-nots.  I got lucky, because the only unit of models I own for Eldar are Dire Avengers, and on their sprue is a great bit.

Not only does it have the gun, it’s also pointing, so it feels even more leaderish!  The next question is how to attach it to the Farseer’s arm.  At first I figured I could just chop at the wrisst and replace hands.  It works on most Space Marines.  It won’t work in this case though, as you can see the gun extends fairly far up the arm, and that could be an issue.  Another way would be to cut at roughly the elbow, and keep the entire brace holding the gun on.  It would mesh fairly well with the robes, hiding the seam.

A cut at the wrist leaves too much
gun hanging over the arm

Cutting at the elbow leaves the entire
gun brace and hides the seam

I decided to cut at the elbow.  Mainly because it hides the seam, making the conversion even easier.  I may not even need green stuff!

Hacking the arm off the metal guy could be done with clippers.  Since the arm coming off is a throw-away, I really don’t care what happens to it.  However, for the sake of the audience, I used my jeweler’s saw so I could show you some basics on using one.
Jeweler’s Saws are just like other saws you’ve used to cut things.  They have teeth that do the cutting and a handle that lets you guide the blade.  However, jeweler’s saws use a very thin blade.  They break terribly easily.  It’s annoying.  But, they certainly do a much neater job cutting.
Here’s how I hold the saw and miniature:
It’s not anything special.  Just have a firm grip on the model, and a loose one on the saw.  Any movement of the model may bind the blade and break it.  It takes some practice to get it right.  Just go slow, and keep adjusting until the blade doesn’t catch.
I started cutting at the seam between the arm and shoulder armor.
After a dozen strokes or so, I check my cut depth and that I’m not cutting at the wrong angle (destroying the shoulderpad or leaving too much arm).
So far, so good!  Another dozen strokes or so and I check again.  I don’t want to saw into the cloth of the robe.
I’m getting close!  Just a few more…
I’ll stop there.  I could go a bit more, bit I really don’t want to ruin the cloth part of the robe.  Now I start sawing upwards from the bottom of the arm towards the armpit, using the robe as a guide.
After a bit, I get something that looks like this:
The arm is barely hanging on!  Perfect.  At this point, I wiggle the arm until it breaks off.  I then use my hobby knife and files to clean up the area.
I then use the saw to trim off what I don’t need from the plastic bit.  I also dropped pins into all the joints – both arms and the neck.
Some superglue later and I have the model I was after!

Skornish Growth

A few weeks ago I stumbled across a find on  I snagged a full Praetorian Swordsmen unit for 50% off!  I love finding PP models used.  Since they’re (basically) all metal, I know I can strip them, no matter what condition they are in.  These were easy though.  After pulling the super glue off, a quick inventory shows I have everything I’ll need to assemble them (except I’m 1 base short…).

Also in the assembly line is a 2 pt model that will push the Beast Handlers out of position for painting this month:  the Venator Flayer Cannon!  PG_Lonely_Monk recently wrote a review of Skorne’s artillery models, and I’ve wanted a Flayer Cannon for a while now.  It’s only 2 pts, fits into Xerxis’ theme force, and offers some nice damage output against both hordes of infantry and harder targets.  It gets more powerful the large the enemy base is (+1 against medium, +2 against large), and it has strafe for D3 total attacks.  Not bad.  That’s up to 3 POW 12s or 3 POW 14s against a ‘beast or ‘jack.  While that seems lackluster at first glance, remember it’s coming at RAT7 and range 14.  
The model looks pretty good too, though it looks to be about as easy to assemble as the battlebox was.
Here’s what the parts look like out of the box, and mocked up with sticky-tac.  I’ll definitely need to pin this.

Also, it should be perfect for Lost Hemisphere’s April Paint the Target challenge.

The last model related update for you today is a WIP of the Titan Gladiator!  I got the skin basecoated as well as most of the red panels.

The reds need another coat or two, but the skin’s ready for the next layer.  I’m hoping the skin will be as easy as a brown wash (haven’t decided which one yet) and some dry-brushing.  Since this guy lives out in the desert, I’m fine with his skin being a bit chalky.  We’ll see how it turns out.

… on the Snotling Pump Wagons!  I finally got all my parts in (except for the snotlings themselves).  Between the 50mm bases, Skaven Screaming Bell wheels and Starbucks Stirring sticks, here’s what I came up with after about two hours of fiddling around.

The snotling in the last picture was provided by the client along with lots of extra spiky bits and stuffs.

Right now it almost feels too big.  The front wheels are almost twice the size of a snotling.  However, that fits right into the comical nature of the orcs and goblins.
Tell me what you think about it!  For reference, the studio model can be viewed here.
When ordering the bits for the Pump Wagons, I stumbled across a pair of Cyclone Chain Guns for my magnetized Cygnar Heavy ”jack.  Some thin magnets later, and viola:

You may notice that the left hand is missing.  Since this model originally came from the battle Box, the only right fist I have is for the Ironclad and has a giant mace in it.  Thus starts the quest to find the bit!, here I come!